DIY Dodge Avenger Door Handle Replacement: A Guide with Bezel Car Door Removing Tool Tips from O'Reilly

For Dodge Avenger owners, a broken exterior door handle is almost a rite of passage. It’s a common issue, and if yours hasn’t snapped off yet, it might be just a matter of time. When my own handle broke, I quickly grew tired of the makeshift solution of a shoelace and the inside handle. That’s when I decided to tackle the repair myself. After consulting online forums like ASOG, reviewing a Chilton manual, and combining that with my own hands-on experience, I developed a step-by-step guide to replace the door handle. This guide is based on my experience, which initially took me over 5 hours. By following these instructions, you should be able to complete the job much faster, especially with the right tools, possibly sourced from places like O’Reilly Auto Parts, including a useful bezel car door removing tool.

Since the first repair, my passenger side door handle also gave way. This guide incorporates the nuances of both driver and passenger side repairs, ensuring you’re prepared for either scenario.

Getting Started: Preparation and Parts

Before you begin, you’ll need to acquire a replacement door handle assembly. Your local Dodge or Mitsubishi dealer is the place to go. For my 1999 Avenger (and likely for similar years like 1995-2000), the part numbers are: Left door P/N MR712045 and right door MR712053. Interestingly, you might save a bit of money by asking for the same part for a Mitsubishi Mirage of the same year, as these parts are often identical but priced differently. I strongly recommend buying a new handle assembly. Used parts might seem cheaper, but the plastic becomes brittle over time, especially in hotter climates, and you risk facing the same problem again soon.

The handle assembly usually comes unpainted in black or white. To match your car’s color, you’ll need to paint it. I found a Dupli-Color® spray paint at O’Reilly Auto Parts that was an exact match for my bright red Avenger. After masking off the working parts of the new handle, I applied several coats of spray paint to the handle and bezel. Allow it to dry completely overnight before starting the installation.

Essential Tools for Door Handle Replacement

Having the right tools will make this job significantly easier and faster. Here’s what you’ll need:

Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers: Standard for removing various screws.
Door panel “pop” tool or wide, thin pry tool: This is essentially your bezel car door removing tool. It helps to safely remove the door panel without damaging it or the clips. You can find these at most auto parts stores, including O’Reilly Auto Parts. A wide, thin pry tool can also work if you’re careful.
Sturdy box or child’s stool (around 10 inches high): To support the door panel while you’re working behind it.
Mirror: Helpful for seeing screws and components in tight spaces.
Flashlight: Essential for illuminating the inside of the door.
Needle-nose vise-grip: Useful for manipulating small parts like clips.
10 mm socket wrench (optional): Can be helpful for some bolts, but a flat wrench is crucial.
10 mm flat box wrench (required): Necessary for removing the door handle bolts in the confined space.
Tools to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery: For safety and to prevent electrical issues.

Step-by-Step Guide: Removing the Door Panel

Removing the door panel might seem daunting, but it’s actually quite straightforward.

Alt text: Diagram showing locations of screws to remove for Dodge Avenger door panel removal.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. This is a safety precaution. You’ll lose your clock setting, but radio presets should remain.
Remove the four Phillips head screws. Two are located on the front edge of the door panel and two on the rear edge (refer to the diagram).
Access the armrest screw. Locate the small cap at the bottom of the armrest pull cavity. Gently pry it open and remove the Phillips screw underneath.
Remove the inner door handle screw. Pull the inside door handle towards you to expose the Phillips screw behind it. Remove this screw.
Detach the inner door handle trim. Use a screwdriver tip to carefully pry loose the plastic trim surrounding the inner door handle and manual door lock. It should pop off. Remove the trim piece.
Pop the door panel clips. There are eight plastic push-in clips securing the door panel. Starting along the bottom edge, use your door panel “pop” tool (bezel car door removing tool) or a wide, thin pry tool to gently release the six clips along the bottom. The two clips at the top will disengage as you swing the panel upwards slightly. Remember, avoid pulling the panel too far out immediately as wires are still connected.
Position support for the door panel. Place your box or stool near the door to support the panel once it’s loose.
Lift and detach the door panel. Gently lift the door panel upwards and outwards to release the top edge from the inner window sill. Rest the panel on your support, a few inches away from the door, allowing access to the back. Note: Ignore instructions in some manuals to disconnect the inner handle linkage. It’s unnecessary.

Alt text: Wiring diagram illustrating the electrical connector for the power window and lock controls on a Dodge Avenger car door.

Locate the wiring connector. Behind the panel, you’ll see a bundle of wires leading to a white electrical connector on the bottom of the button box (power windows and locks).
Disconnect the button box. You have two options:

A. Remove the four screws on the sides of the button box (use a mirror to see them) and let the box dangle. You can disconnect it later if desired.

B. Unplug the connector. This can be a bit tricky. There’s a locking tab between the socket and the door panel. Press this tab inwards with your finger, similar to a telephone cord connector, and use a small screwdriver to gently nudge the connector loose. Automotive connectors are often designed for secure connection, making disconnection slightly more challenging.

With the connector detached, you can now fully remove the door panel and set it aside. You might find a piece of Styrofoam sound deadening – it might be loose or still attached. These are often held by screws with inadequate washers, causing them to detach easily. Duct tape can be used to re-secure it.

Take a moment to notice the sealant used to secure the plastic weather seal. Often, there’s excessive goo that can drip down. Cleaning this excess with charcoal lighter fluid and a putty knife can prevent it from soiling clothes later. Also, check for pooled sealant in the bottom of the door panel.

Carefully peel back the plastic weather seal from the top rear corner of the door. This area provides the access for the next steps, requiring a bit of “keyhole surgery.”

Removing the Old Door Handle Assembly

Alt text: Diagram showing the end of a Dodge Avenger car door with highlighted locations of door handle bolts.

Locate and remove the outer bolt. The handle assembly is secured by two 10 mm bolts. The outer bolt is visible on the door edge, above the latch mechanism (see diagram). Use a 10 mm wrench, socket, or even a Phillips screwdriver to remove it.
Find and access the inner bolt. The inner bolt is hidden. You can see it through a peep hole in the door or by looking up through a larger opening just forward of the peep hole. A flashlight is essential here. You’ll be looking through the bottom of the door glass area. The bolt is positioned just above and behind the lock cylinder. You’ll also notice a wire C-clip around the lock cylinder socket. Your new handle assembly should include a replacement C-clip, allowing you to observe its attachment before removal. (See diagram for bolt and clip location).
Remove the C-Clip. Pry the C-clip out of its groove, either from the top or bottom. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently lift an edge of the C-clip wire. Then, use needle-nose pliers to fully remove the lock cylinder socket. Be careful not to damage any electrical components on the end of the cylinder (especially if you have a factory alarm) or disturb the rod connecting to the door latch mechanism. Updated tip from Rich Starr with Rodger’s approval.

It’s okay if the lock cylinder socket on the old handle breaks during clip removal, as you’re replacing the entire assembly anyway. Keep the old C-clip as a spare.
Remove the inner mounting bolt. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 10mm socket for the inner bolt. This is easier than using a wrench. Updated tip from Rich Starr with Rodger’s approval. If the bolt drops into the door, don’t worry, there’s space to retrieve it.
Detach the handle assembly. The handle assembly is now loose. Move to the outside of the door and gently wiggle the handle assembly outwards. You need to access the plastic clip connecting the gold-colored rod (from below) to the metal arm on the handle assembly. This arm moves down when you pull the handle, actuating the door latch via the gold rod. Be careful not to bend the gold rod or its linkage on the latch assembly. Study how the clip and rod connect (see diagram below) as you’ll need to replicate this by feel during installation.

Note: You might need to break away more of the old handle assembly to gain access to the gold rod and clip. This is acceptable since the old handle is being discarded. Avoid bending the gold rod or its linkage. Tony’s feedback suggests removing the door latch assembly to make connecting the gold rod easier, especially for those finding it challenging to do inside the door.
Open the clip and detach the gold rod. Open the clasp on the clip using a small screwdriver blade inserted between the clasp ends to pop it open. Then, pull out the gold rod. A new clip comes with the replacement handle assembly, and it’s wise to replace the old one due to potential wear.
Remove the lock cylinder. If it hasn’t already, push the lock cylinder out of the old handle assembly with your finger. The rod connecting to the latch assembly will keep the cylinder nearby. Now, you can fully remove the old handle assembly.

Installing the New Door Handle Assembly

Prepare the new handle clip. Ensure the gold rod clip clasp on the new handle assembly is open. Note the orientation of the clasp – whether the longer tab is inwards or outwards. Driver side clasps usually have the longer tab inwards, passenger side outwards (using the same clip design). Understand how the clasp works using a screwdriver shaft as a proxy for the gold rod. Pushing on the longer tab closes the clasp, but this is only possible if the tab is facing inwards due to space constraints inside the door. Follow the passenger door procedure if the longer tab is outwards.
Position the handle and gold rod. Loosely place the new handle assembly into the door opening, holding it with your fingers from the outside. From inside the door, ensure the gold rod is aligned to connect with the arm on the handle assembly. Taping the clip open with masking or scotch tape can help keep it in position for easier gold rod insertion.
Driver Door Installation: If you are working on the passenger door, skip to step 3A.

Move the lock assembly aside (without disconnecting anything) to create more space. Hold the handle assembly flush against the door and temporarily install the outer (door edge) 10 mm bolt.

Reach inside to position the gold rod end around the clip and into the hole on the metal arm. This step requires patience and persistence, and might take around 30 minutes. Once the gold rod is in position with the clasp around it, use your finger to push the longer end of the clasp towards the smaller end until you hear a “snap” indicating it’s closed. If you can’t reach to close the clasp, see step 5A below (passenger door procedure). Practicing clasp closure on the old handle clip beforehand can be helpful. The “snap” of the clasp closing is a satisfying sound! Remove the outer 10 mm bolt and proceed to step 6.

Important Note: Do not attempt to connect the gold rod to the clip and close the clasp outside the door before mounting the handle. The geometry won’t allow handle installation after pre-connecting the rod. Trying this might lead to damage. This design seems inefficient for assembly line processes too, suggesting the handle might be installed before the inner door panel is welded in place. This highlights a design flaw in terms of maintainability.

3A. Passenger Door Installation: If you are working on the passenger door, continue here.

> 3A. Move the lock assembly aside (without disconnecting anything) to create a bit more room. Temporarily install the outer 10 mm bolt to hold the handle assembly in place.
>
> 4A. Reach inside to position the gold rod end around the clip and into the hole on the metal arm. This may still require patience and effort and could take around 30 minutes.
>
> 5A. If the longer tab on the clasp is facing outwards (common on passenger doors), remove the outer 10 mm bolt. Gently pull the lower outer edge of the handle assembly outwards just enough to peek inside and see the gold rod in place, with the clasp open. Reach in and push the clasp tab to close it. The "snap" sound will be very rewarding!
>
> *Important Note:  Similar to the driver's side, pre-connecting the gold rod and clasp before handle mounting is not recommended due to installation constraints.*

For both driver and passenger doors:

Insert the lock cylinder. Insert the lock cylinder into its socket in the handle assembly. It’s keyed to fit vertically. The lock cylinder rod to the latch mechanism limits rotation anyway. Crucially, do this step before bolting the handle assembly completely, as clearance becomes restricted afterwards. Re-install the outer 10 mm bolt.

Gaylord’s feedback: “I had trouble with the C-clip until I put the C-clip on first, then snapped in the lock.” While unconventional, this might work for some.
Install the C-Clip. Install the C-clip before installing the inner mounting bolt. This is critical, as C-clip installation becomes very difficult after the inner bolt is in place. By hand, place the top wire of the C-clip into the top groove. Then, use fingers, a small screwdriver, or needle-nose pliers to pop the lower wire into its groove. Be careful not to apply excessive force around the plastic or damage the lock cylinder and its electrical components. Remember the “ears” of the C-clip should point inwards towards you.
Install the inner mounting bolt. Start threading the inner bolt by hand. You might need to slightly loosen the outer bolt to align the inner hole properly. Be patient; you should be able to start it by hand. Once started, tighten it as much as you can by hand. Finally, use a 1/4 inch ratchet and 10mm socket to fully tighten the outer bolt first, then the inner bolt.

Re-installing the Door Panel

Inspect and prepare door clips. Check all door panel push-on clips for presence and damage. Replace any damaged clips (available at auto parts stores). To ensure they stay in place during re-installation, you can add a small piece of duct tape around their mountings.
Smooth the plastic liner. Smooth the plastic liner on the inner door back into its original position. If the original sealant isn’t holding, use duct tape to secure it.
Reconnect the button box. Rest the panel on your support near the door and reconnect the electrical connector to the button box. The locking tab should face the panel’s inner surface, and the connector will click into place. If you unscrewed the button box instead of disconnecting, simply re-install it.
Tuck the panel top edge. Carefully tuck the upper edge of the door panel under the rubber trim along the top of the door sill. Starting at one end and working across makes it easier to pop the entire edge into place.
Swing and secure the panel. Swing the panel downwards. You should hear the top two door clips engage. Then, use the heel of your hand to firmly tap along the bottom edge of the panel from one end to the other until all clips are securely engaged. The panel should now be back in place.
Install the edge screws. Reinstall the four edge screws – two on the front edge and two on the rear edge of the panel.
Reinstall inner handle trim. Pulling the inner door handle towards you, work the inside handle trim back into position and reinstall its screw.
Install the armrest screw. Reinstall the screw at the bottom of the armrest pull cavity. If the plastic around this screw is damaged (common with age), use a large washer with the screw. Paint the screw and washer black for a less noticeable repair.
Reconnect the battery and test. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes without accessories to allow the car’s computer to reprogram. Test all door controls to ensure they are functioning correctly. If not, double-check the wiring connections.

Congratulations! Your new door handle should be installed. To extend its lifespan, consider adopting a habit of using the handle only to release the latch and then using the door’s edge to open the heavy door. This reduces stress on the handle and might prevent future breakage.

Good luck with your repair!

— Rodger Koppa, College Station, Texas

Feedback from Fellow Dodge Avenger Owners

Matthew Greene:

I owned a 1999 Sebring LXi and had the same broken handle issues. With my 1998 Avenger, I found that removing the three bolts under the exterior handle bolt (the locking hinge) allows the entire unit to slide down. This makes handle removal and installation much easier. The first side took me 3 hours, but after figuring this out, the second handle took only 30 minutes. Great directions overall!

Karen and Robert Mullins, Bossier City, Louisiana:

Thanks to Rodger Coppa for these Dodge Avenger passenger door handle instructions! They were spot on. My husband and I did this for our daughter’s car. I found a new door handle in the box for $28 at a local U-Pull-It yard (a Mitsubishi Eclipse handle fit, not Mirage as mentioned initially). The Dodge dealer price was $89! I bought a door “pop” tool (bezel car door removing tool) at Auto Zone for $5.99, and it worked perfectly without breaking any clips. We didn’t need a mirror. We did break the ears off the lock mechanism clip and taped it as the C-clip was nearly impossible to reinstall. Otherwise, it was an easy project. The inside bolt was the trickiest part due to the “keyhole” access. We used two flashlights. Thanks again to Rodger for the detailed procedure! We couldn’t have done it without these instructions.

DIY Dodge Avenger Door Handle Replacement: A Guide with Bezel Car Door Removing Tool Tips from O’Reilly